Les Cheminots (from The
Forked River Anthology)
Terminus
The
loud-speaker crackles information along the line. A train is approaching. There
is no station-master, and the ticket-office is closed for refurbishment. But
the buffers are solid. The shock makes the rickety Railway Hotel tremble, but
it stays put.
Bras is the end of the line on the route to
the sun. And so, railwaymen tend to retire here. At fifty-five they are too young for the
Maison de Retraite, and so the station hotel has become their interim resting
place. Pre-fabricated annexes keep up with the influx. A band of them have
colonized what was once the station garden, a profusion of red and yellows
poppies which thrive where no other flowers would.
‘Voilà, les anciens cheminots’, says Welsh. ‘The pride and joy of La France
reduced to becoming their own buffers’. He has been commissioned to sketch them
for their Union brochure. Under the moth-eaten plane trees, the cheminots
hunch together playing boules. When the metal ball donkey-drops to
scatter the clutter, one of them whistles like a night train. Welsh
concentrates on his art by talking about something else. ‘During the Occupation
train drivers had the coal watered to slow down the locomotives transporting
people to the camps. Thus, facilitating escapes. And after the war, national
pride was revived by getting the railways up to speed with the Trains a
Grande Vitesse, TGVs.
‘However,
since steam has been replaced by diesel the railwaymen have been running on
self-esteem. The early retirement needs to be justified as shovelling coal is a
thing of the past, and they haven’t a lot to do. They stand around being as
unhelpful as possible in updating travellers on the latest interruptions to the
timetable, the sacrėe horaire.
‘Claimed
diseases due to asbestos has been cited but it is common to most industries.
Occupational smoking also is mentioned. Time on their hands means fags behind
the fingers. But neither Pierre le Terre with his double cancer, and M. Jacky
with the less glamorous chronic bronchitis, were keen to make themselves a
Union issue. Anyway, now smoking is banned, even on platforms, their case is past
its sell-by date.
‘But
the buffers have a reputation to keep up as victims of the pre-health and
safety age. Whenever they meet you can hear them greet one another with the
usual ‘Tamaloo.’ Where does it hurt? And, indeed, a working life spent
rattling along in a train travelling over three hundred kilometres an hour
cannot be good for the joints. And no doubt standing around killing time is bad
for the blood circulation.’
I
deign to interrupt. ‘The cheminots have derailed themselves as national
treasures. Lightning strikes have stolen their thunder. Their privileged status
is a joke. The last time I travelled by rail I asked a group of them when the
next train was due. One of them asked to see my ticket. Another pointed up at
the screen which was blank. The third said the next train has just gone. And
the fourth laughed triumphantly, saying we are ahead of ourselves’.
‘You
need to regard them more kindly, Augustus. They must feel like redundant stock
thrown on the rust-heap. Haven’t you noticed their absent expressions, and if
you look long enough at them, like the Pyrénées, they cloud up. They’re in
search of the lost time when they were sympathetic figures, like Jean Gabin in
the film La Bėte Humaine, who as the train speeds past shovels coal into
the garden of the war widow’.
‘If
I remember rightly Gabin’s character was a psychopath. Still the romance of the
railroad dies hard. ‘Le temps mange la vie’, says Baudelaire in his
poem ‘L’ennemi’. Time eats life’.
‘I
would add ‘table’ to that’, says Welsh. ‘They are not killing time but the
time-table is killing them’.
‘Slowly’.
‘’It
won’t be long’ is the railwaymen’s refrain’, Welsh laughs, and closes his
sketchbook. ‘The final mile of the line
between the station and the town is overgrown. You can see the tracks worn into
the road that leads to the port, which once freighted bananas to the cities,
and ferryboat passengers to Africa. Now the ferry no longer embarks from Bras,
and the fruit is transported in lorries.
‘The
only wind the cheminots know for certain is the wind of change, and it seems
always to be against them. Even so, the greening of the tracks has a rightness
about it. Time is not eating up the track, it’s returning it to nature.
Augustus, there is no such thing as a terminus, only cycles. The railwaymen’s
day will come again when the world runs out of petrol. The Port Authorities
still maintain the railway bridge, painting over the rust. Trains will return,
they think, when ecology issues go beyond banning plastic bags in
super-markets. It won’t be full steam ahead, but electric’.
‘Meanwhile,
politically they have become a force against retirement reform. Not least
because they dispute the fact that if they change jobs (work on an airline
instead, say) they keep their privileges’.
‘This
won’t be sustainable ad infinite, Yann’.